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Reno is Nevada's third largest city at 180,480 [2000], behind Las Vegas and Henderson (both of which you can see in the US 95 Vegas to Blythe photoessay), and Washoe county's seat since 1871. It sits around 22 miles northeast of Lake Tahoe. Nevada's "Biggest Little City in the World," as it is self-billed (originally "Biggest Little City on the Map," from a slogan for a 1910 prizefight), was historically first established as Lake's Crossing in 1861 by Myron Lake. In turn, Lake's little service community owed its roots to entrepreneur Charles Fuller, who had built a toll log bridge across the Truckee River in 1859 to cash in on the transportation racket to and from Virginia City and the mines. Fuller sold out to Lake after two years, who grew the bridge into his eponymous community offering lodging, meals, and mill and livery service. When the Central Pacific Railroad arrived in 1868 to complete the transcontinental railroad, Lake was anxious to guarantee a rail connection for his enterprise and gave land to Central Pacific in exchange for a promise the railroad would establish a depot at Lake's Crossing. This was established in 1868, at which point the town of Reno was born and named in honour of Union Maj. Gen. Jesse L. Reno, a casualty of the Civil War.
Reno, like Las Vegas, did not gain preeminence in the state until the mining boom died out. Its economy was further enriched with Nevada's legalization of gambling in 1931 and its then-liberal divorce laws that made it the best spot in the nation to cut the knot until other states eventually relaxed their restrictions as well. However, Las Vegas' proximity to southern California combined with the rise of local Indian gaming has tarnished Reno's casino viability (as well as that of northern Nevada in general), killing off many smaller gaming establishments and dropping business for the few large enough to remain. Today, in addition to the remaining casinos (which still do a brisk business on travel weekends), it is also the home of University of Nevada Reno, Nevada's oldest university (established 1874) and the only judicial college in the entire nation.
Old US 395 through Reno survives as Virginia Street, over which the famous
Reno neon arch stretches (which we will get to see). This is well-demonstrated
on the small map inset at right from 1966.
US 395's alignments through Reno are the only other sections of the highway
that ever had ALT or TEMP alignments,
to be discussed as we reach them. None of them remain in the present day.
Click the inset at right
for a complete basic city map at that time (64K).
In highway history, the intersection of Virginia St and Fourth St is the
historic junction of US 40 and US 395, and also the southeastern terminus of
Alternate US 40 from 1955-64 (shown just after its initial signage to the
left; note how it is now gone from the 1966 map above).
US 40 was the Victory Highway (which we will discuss), the inheritor of the
famous "National Road," as well as the western portion of the northern
"Donner" alignment of the Lincoln Highway in California (see
Part 11); it
has been replaced in the present day by Interstate 80 between San Francisco
and Silver Creek Jct, UT since 1975, although Reno was its western terminus
between 1966 and 1975 after I-80's construction in California. Note the
presence of TEMP I-80 shields on the 1966 inset. From its
western terminus today near Salt Lake City, it continues on its historic
old alignment across the nation to Atlantic City, NJ, its unchanged eastern
terminus. As for the Lincoln Hwy, as we discussed in
Part 11, the "Donner" alignment then proceeded
east on US 40 to Wadsworth, where it dipped south towards US 50 on what is
now ALT US 50 today, and then east from there on the "mainline" along US 50.
We will talk about the Victory Hwy and a little more about ALT US 40 presently.
The significance of 2nd St on the 1966 map is unclear; it may represent a minor local alternate alignment.
Just like old US 395 in the previous part is now legislatively NV 430, so is old US 395 through Reno (despite nearly all of it still having US 395 postmiles). The majority is also signed as Business Route 395. The oddity is, if old US 395 has US 395 postmiles, then what postmiles does the modern US 395 freeway have? Well, that's another story to be discussed in the next Part.
Old US 395/US 40A more or less
from the old US 40/US 395 junction up to Alternate US 40's diversion (modern
CA 70) in Part 15 is
part of the Old Beckwourth Trail, named for James Pierson Beckwourth (1798-1866,
picture at right).
James Beckwourth was an African-American explorer who ascended from an
unhappy childhood as a slave in Virginia and Missouri to become a fur trapper
in the Rocky Mountains in 1824. No pun intended, but his stories made him
a most colourful figure and his adventures as a mountain man in the
early American west made for entertaining, if somewhat exaggerated,
storytelling. What is not in doubt was his keen exploratory and pathfinding
sense, enhanced by almost eight years spent with the Crow Indians during
which he became a war chief and enjoyed dalliances with many an Indian girl.
However, his reputation was ruined by assertions that he deliberately
infected the Crow with smallpox on a later visit to the tribe (a point of
some controversy), and the American Fur Company declined to hire him back
in 1837. Following this possibly unjustified disgrace,
he wandered aimlessly throughout the south and southwest engaging in
itinerant work and travel for nearly a decade. As luck would have it, he was
in the west when James Marshall found gold at John Sutter's mill in Coloma
in 1848, and he found prospecting to be a more gainful pursuit than
trapping ever was. Naturally, so did everybody
else, and the city of Marysville, CA (along US 99, now CA 99, and the
junction of CA 20 and CA 70) was one of the towns near Gold Country finding
itself flush with miners and no local support for them. Marysville and
Beckwourth struck a deal: Beckwourth would help Marysville construct an
easier settler's crossing into Gold Country -- through Marysville, of course
-- for a fee and expenses, with the hope that some settlers would stick
around along the way. Beckwourth's exploratory sense was hardly any
the less acute for its long years of use
and he promptly discovered a lower crossing north of the Donner
with a far less onerous climb at 5,221' in 1850.
That pass is still in use, named
the Beckwourth Pass, and traversed today by modern CA 70; we will talk about
the course of the Beckwourth Trail when we get to its diversion point in
Part 15.
Conveniently for the city,
by the time Beckwourth had set up the trail and was guiding
the wagon train in as agreed during the summer of 1851,
he discovered that much of Marysville
had burned to the ground during a fire in his absence and the city was
broke. There is no record that Beckwourth ever got his fee, although there
is now a park in Marysville named for him (Beckwourth Memorial Park) at
the junction of the Feather and Yuba Rivers, established 1995.
In the last
decade of his life, Beckwourth dictated his memoirs to Thomas D. Bonner,
a local justice, in 1854-55; Bonner made some editorial changes but transcribed
Beckwourth's words essentially as-was and The Life and Adventures of
James P. Beckwourth, Mountaineer, Scout, and Pioneer, and Chief of the Crow
Nation of Indians was published in 1856. Though it enjoyed a certain
amount of popularity only for its presumed preposterousness and there were
also those who regarded any black man to be unfit for the frontier, to be
sure, a large number of his exploits were independently confirmed by other
observers and contemporaries. The book passed through several printings and
at least one translation, the only first-person
document of an African-American in the
American West during this time. Pleased with the fame that his stories had
awarded him, Beckwourth maintained a genial presence in the public eye up
until his death in 1866.
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Fork 1: NV 430 (BR 395, Old US 395)
Let's start with old US 395 before we do the freeway. The freeway crosses us on the overpass and stretches south and west to intersect and (presently) terminate at NV 431. Entire original image (128.5KB) |
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Crossing into Reno city limits.
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At this point, we are officially S Virginia St.
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However, despite not carrying US 395 shields, and not even legislatively
being US 395 anymore, there are still US 395 postmiles. We will see quite a few
of them.
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So. Virginia St signage on a mastarm going by.
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The US 395 freeway crosses its old alignment quite a few times. Here's another.
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Junction US 395 freeway north of Meadows Mktplace.
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And, right next to it, is another postmile.
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Freeway entrance assembly just past the overpass. This is new in vintage as
evidenced by the MUTCD upgrade to emphasize the first letter in the
directional banner.
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Still So. Virginia St, and still postmiled US 395.
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First signage for Business Route 395 and the third crossing of the freeway
over the old alignment approaching the McCarran Blvd "loop" route (NV 651).
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Approaching the interchange. Note the use of Susanville (Parts 15 and 16)
as a control city.
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Onramp and interchange.
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Continuing as S Virginia St and now officially BR 395 (no shields that I
could find, however). Kietzke Lane, to the right, was signed or at least
designated as TEMP US 395 for a period of time during the late 1970s. This
seems to have been related to the construction of the freeway between
Moana Ln and S Virginia St, which was not finished until 1980, so based on
dates and termini of completion for the various US 395 freeway segments
(we'll talk
about this in Part 14,
but don't spoil the surprise just yet!), the most
likely dates were 1977-1980 and TEMP US 395's probable routing was Moana
Ln west to Kietzke Ln and then south to Virginia Street. When the freeway was
completed further south, the Temporary US 395 designation was apparently
discarded.
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Junction with Kietzke Ln. Probable old US 395 TEMP went north (right).
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Impressive columns and crossway over Virginia St.
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The Peppermill Reno, one of the larger casinos on the south side of the city.
West of the casino is Virginia Lake, a very pretty urban park which is nice
for a midday break.
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Plumb Ln.
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Dr Evil: "I call it the Alan Parsons Project." Actually, I'm a big fan of
Alan Parsons and saw him in concert when he was in Los Angeles a few months
ago (he even signed my Eye In The Sky CD), so this billboard struck me as a
little nuts. Regretfully, I forgot to bring my I, Robot LP for him to sign too.
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It just wouldn't be a proper sin city without sex shops, now would it?
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Finally, entering the city centre at Liberty St. Virginia St veers west and
north a little here, and into the downtown. Since this is downtown Reno,
we need the neon, so let's take a break and see ...
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Reno's downtown is heralded by crossing the Truckee River on this very old
crossing, dated 1905 with subsequent upgrades. This crossing is very near
Fuller's old log bridge that established Reno originally. The thumbnail
at right is the crossing during the 1950s (click for a 125K larger view),
which has minimally changed to the present day.
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Looking at the river beneath us.
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Just past the bridge is this fascinating light sculpture
Reno City Hall is in the background, another city hall along the old highway.
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The Victory Hwy is less well known than the Lincoln Hwy (see Part 11),
but is worth discussing as a historical diversion. It was established in
the days following World War I as a memorial to those who fought and died
in battle with its termini in New York City and San Francisco. Naturally,
as it existed in the same timeframe as the Lincoln, the two booster
organizations competed ferociously for auto traffic and the route became
important enough to be designated US 40 with the rise of the Federal highway
system in 1926. US 40 nearly exactly duplicated the highway except for a
more direct alignment over the Sacramento River and a northern relocation
of the western terminus, and a southern bypass
between Oakley, KS and Limon, CO (the original northern route became US 40N
[now approximated by I-70]), using the northern route to California used
by most frontier expeditions and the Central Pacific Railroad (ironically
partially adopted as the "Donner" fork of the Lincoln) and the
remnants of the "National Road" in the eastern states. Unfortunately,
despite the success of the Victory Hwy US 40 -- it was receiving
sometimes as much as three times the traffic of the Lincoln-US 50 by the late
1930s and as such became selected as a major national transportation corridor
when the Interstate plumb lines were drawn -- it always got considerably
shorter shrift in the history books compared to the Lincoln, and to this day
is still relatively obscure. The modern routing is approximately I-80 from
San Francisco to
Salt Lake City, then US 40 (and portions I-70) to Baltimore, MD, and then US 1
to New York City. Here is a nice collection of
Victory Highway
resources.
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By comparison, I have always found Reno casinos somewhat seedier than Las Vegas
ones, much like old Vegas during the 1980s and 1990s before the Fremont Street
Experience upgraded the older facades (see our US 95
exhibit). This Fitzgeralds sign captures the difference, I think,
especially if you've been to Fitzgeralds in Las Vegas. Much as Las Vegas now,
most of the new and more modern casino development is occurring south on old
US 395 as Vegas' is occuring along old US 91, and it seems likely that Reno's
"strip" will start migrating south as well.
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A windy night along old Virginia St and the El Dorado.
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4th Street at the Silver Legacy,
old US 40 (and BR 80 on some maps). As mentioned above,
this was the historic US 40/US 395 junction and the
southern terminus of Alternate US 40 from 1955-1964 (Dan
Faigin notes that what would become
ALT US 40 first existed in California in the late 1930s, but this was
not CA 70; this probably refers to the old Oroville-Quincy Hwy and its
connecting thoroughfares [the oldest routing of CA 24]
along which ALT US 40 was originally routed).
ALT US 40 then proceeded north along US 395 into California, west through
the Feather River Canyon, and then southwest into Sacramento and US 99
(now CA 99). When California gutted US 40 as part of the
Great Renumbering, the Alternate
designation became superfluous and was discarded; the 70 number was
freed up when US 70 perished in the Great Renumbering as well, and was
handed to the old alignment. Recall from the introduction that
portions of old US 40A were parts of the
Beckwourth Trail, which again we will discuss more in Part 15.
We proceed north on old US 395/old ALT US 40.
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Circus Circus.
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One of my favourite Dreyer's ads has a cop asking a driver, "Is that an open
container, son?" and when the driver admits it is, the cop says, "... can I
have some?" (On the traffic signals.)
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Daylight Returns As we leave the old downtown, we pass by various flophouses and such along the "strip," as it were. Entire original image (99KB) |
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I think it's pretty obvious this routing is frankly bizarre and was probably
a nightmare to visitors trying to use it as, well, an alternate to US 395 on
Virginia; it does not represent a historical routing either, as US 395 was
never routed on either of those streets. In the interests of time and
because it was undoubtedly of minor impact at most, I will only mention
its existence and not follow the routing. We continue NB on Virginia St.
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Junction Interstate 80. North of I-80, S. Virginia St becomes N. Virginia St.
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The University of Nevada at Reno. Old US 395 skirts the western side of it.
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US 395 postmiles still appear here too, including this one unceremoniously
taped to a lightpole. This postmile is not metal, but just a reinforced
strip of retroflective material stuck on the pole. There are several like
this, including south of here.
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Through the western portion of the university.
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They could use some lightbulb technicians too.
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McCarran Blvd "loop" route again (NV 651) as we head towards north Reno and
the Panther Valley.
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Still on NB BR 395/NV 430 N. Virginia St, with another US 395 postmile.
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N Virginia St loops to the east to intersect Panther Dr at the north end
of town. The official business route and NV 430's routing continue east to
the US 395 freeway, while N Virginia St continues to the north. We'll come
back to this point, but for now we will continue towards the freeway.
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As proof this is the "official" routing, we have another postmile (hidden
by a road construction sign) on our way to the freeway.
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Junction US 395 freeway. We turn around to get back to N Virginia St for
the next Part and fork. Fortunately, no NHP or Reno PD officers were watching
that particular manoeuvre.
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