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CA 270, The Road To Bodie
Part 1: To Bodie |
CA 270 is one of California's most unusual highways, a one-way road from
the eastern Sierra Nevadas to what is today essentially nowhere.
Although the route is technically a through route to
the far flung reaches of western Nevada, only the first 10 paved miles of it
actually belong to the highway, and the highway doesn't actually reach its
intended destination
(proof of that in a moment). The rest is state park road, and beyond that
locally maintained only in theory, a rough journey even in favourable weather
and a veritable deathtrap in the jaws of winter. Despite that,
during the spring and summer CA 270 is frequently traveled by tourists to what
has surprisingly become one of the California park service's most popular
living museums. Unlike other highly isolated routes such as CA 266, there is no
shortage of traffic in tourist season.
As you have already guessed, the intended terminus for CA 270 is Bodie
State Historic Park and the Bodie Historic District (discussed in
Part 2), California's most famous ghost town. While
Bodie has an extensive history which we will discuss in some detail, the
highway itself does not. Although the actual alignment obviously existed
in some form for decades and was always connected to what was the Camino
Sierra, then CA 7 and now US Highway 395, the
modern road did not become part of the California highway system until 1970,
almost a decade after the state park was designated. The paved road was
supposed to extend up to the park boundary, but never made it, and the
asphalt still to this day ends "in space" several miles short.
Photographs taken July 2009.
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Approaching the turnoff to CA 270 from SB US 395, a few miles south of
Bridgeport. The OPEN sign is tacked on by Caltrans, who sends a poor schlub
out from Bishop every so often when snows occur to change the sign. During
the winter, the road is regularly closed.
This view is greatly impaired by the
cliffs dug down in antiquity by the East Walker River, which is just next to
us, in the shadow of which US 395 runs until it crosses the river in
Bridgeport (see
US Highway 395 Part 8).
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However, descending the grade from NB US 395, north of the Conway Summit,
affords us a much better view. Here the river runs to our left. There are
some "piles" which we'll look at in Part 2.
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The corresponding closure sign from the NB side. Notice that OPEN is its
default state.
The CLOSED sign sits behind the sign and is bolted on.
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California historical landmark sign. Remember the 13 miles figure.
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Turn-off.
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Making the turn.
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Semis are definitely, definitely not advised. Theoretically
this is a through route (it's not state highway the whole way though), but
it's awfully tough going, and your only payoff are those happenin' burgs of
western Nevada.
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Moveable closure barrier for the winter.
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If the pavement ends in 10 miles, and Bodie is 13 miles ...
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Many of the local roads and even state highways are not cleared of snow in
winter. US 395 is the only reliably cleared highway, and even that mighty
road has winter snow closures from time to time.
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The sign lies not.
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... or else what?
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This sign isn't totally true, as there are restrooms and you can purchase
water, but if you didn't get gas in Bridgeport or Lee Vining and you're
going straight through to Nevada, do reconsider.
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CA 270 in its "easternmost reaches" hunkers down in this small canyon which
at times of the year carries an inconsistent tributary of the Walker.
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PM 1.0.
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Elevation 7000'.
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Curving around the rugged hills of the creek valley.
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The valley starts to flatten out. Fishermen sometimes investigate in this
less steep segment.
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PM 3.0 as we enter the eastern Bodie valley.
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Here the rugged terrain becomes softer as older rock is exposed. Notice the
bright oxides in the soil.
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Into the valley.
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A beautiful forest green meadow sits here, occasionally used by sheep
herders for grazing during the spring and summer months.
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Occasionally some trailers can be seen on the hillside, but today there
was nothing.
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The only distance signage along CA 270. We'll see the back of this sign
on our return. This was erected during Caltrans' brief flirtation with
dual miles/kilometres signs.
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Leaving the lush meadow behind as we start to climb higher.
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Bye, creek.
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PM 6.0.
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Cresting the "summit." Actually, the road gains more elevation past here,
but this is the most significant of the small grade ascents.
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Yes, that's snow. In July.
Some small amount of high-altitude grazing also takes place up here, and
there is access for hiking trails.
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Wilderness study marker off the highway.
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Continuing up, at a much less acute angle.
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Along this lesser incline,
the highway takes an S curve across the high scrub vegetation
for what appears to be no good reason.
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PM 8.0.
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Nothing. Just wanted to point out where nothing was. (Not sure if Mono
county or Caltrans posted this.) A companion marker, similarly devoid
of obvious meaning, is nearby.
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A slight dip takes us below 8,000', after which we briefly reclimb, the
last such gorge we cross on the paved portion.
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PM 9.0, the final postmile heading east.
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The last paved ascent.
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Pavement Ends.
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At the time,
the only CA 270 shield along the eastern alignment was this one, stuck to
the back of a sign on the other side of the road. Since these pictures were
taken, Caltrans erected an actual END assembly.
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We continue as Bodie Rd. Although many maps show CA 270 as continuing past
this point, this is the terminus of the highway and
Caltrans, though not
state, maintenance stops here. Three miles of "very rough road" continue
on, though actually it's not that bad:
the road is gravel but not terribly
graded, and most passenger vehicles will do okay on it despite the
washboarding of recent years.
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EB Bodie Rd.
Strange that the rest of the road would not be paved; the grade is not
that difficult.
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However, one thing I really don't understand is why
the park gate is here. There is another gate way back at the mouth
of CA 270, but you'd think the secondary gate would be at the end of the paved
portion.
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Nevertheless, we now reach the state park boundary, and ...
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