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CA 136: The Owens Lake Link |
In 1933 California adopted three new routes into the state highway system
consolidated as LRN 127 in 1935, from LRN 4 (US 99)
at Tipton to LRN 31 (US 91-466) at Baker via Lone Pine and Death Valley,
but using two sign numbers
with the initial designation of state sign routes in 1934.
The bulk of the routing was designated as CA 190, running from Tipton
over the Sierras on unconstructed routing to Lone Pine, then along a zigzag
to Amargosa Junction. Rather than continue as CA 190 down to Baker, however,
a new SSR 127 was designated using the remaining piece of LRN 127 plus the
stub LRN 128 [1933] to the Nevada state line.
In 1960, the Division of Highways determined a new proposed routing for CA 190
from Quaking Aspen over the Sierras, this time crossing through Olancha, south
of Lone Pine. The new routing connected with the old highway southeast of
Keeler on its way to Death Valley. With the California Great Renumbering of
1964 and the abolishment of the old LRN system,
the CA 190 designation moved to this new southern Olancha leg and a new
number, CA 136, was applied to the old alignment.
Both routes now act as a circle around Owens Lake, all but drained by the
City of Los Angeles for its water supply and ending the viability of the
Owens Valley for most large-scale farming (the Owens in Owens Lake and Owens
Valley is Richard Owens, a member of John Frémont's 1845 survey party in
the region; see US Highway 395 Part 3).
There isn't a great deal to look at on CA 136's brief routing
and its primary purpose now is its
primary purpose then, a cutoff to Death Valley from points north. But it's
fast and easy to travel, and it passes through a little bit of inland
California history that not many people know about.
Photographed August 2010.
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We approach from the south on modern CA 190, heading east from Olancha, at
PM 24.
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Approaching the junction.
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CA 190 is shown turning right, as it does, but the road to the left is CA
136 and is not signed.
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Junction CA 136, at its eastern terminus.
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There is no END CA 136 on this end, but there is a sign for CA 190 "straight
ahead," and a turnoff for Olancha.
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The last postmile, at PM 17.30, though this is clearly wrong: we will
pass PM 17.50 going the other way, and the Caltrans log gives CA 136's
terminus at PM 17.88.
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Continuing on CA 190 past the junction, with hideous distance signage to
points in Death Valley that has since been replaced.
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We turn back around, passing an elevation 4000' marker (yes, we really are
up that high).
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PM 25.50 (CA 190).
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This mystery folding sign probably says "JUNCTION 190" but I
can't get enough out of the threshold gating to say for certain.
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From this direction, however, CA 136 is "straight ahead."
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CA 190 curves off for Olancha, but we continue on.
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This smashed sign at the junction makes the cutoff nature of CA 136 clear:
both roads go to US 395 (note the kilometre distances), just at your
choice of Lone Pine (CA 136) or Olancha (CA 190).
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So, we choose Lone Pine, passing the first CA 136 shield at PM 17.50.
Also note the kilometres signage again. Caltrans
hasn't posted these since the mid-1980s, but some still survive out here.
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WB CA 136.
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PM 16.50.
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PM 15.50.
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The attractively (ahem) named Sulfate Rd (and 100 Sulfate Rd).
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Some mining works
still occur on Owens Lake, skimming alkali from its barren crusts. There
is also a Los Angeles Department of Water and Power (LADWP) substation here.
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PM 14.50.
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Curving around the northeast corner of the lake.
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A Point of Historical Interest: the Owens Lake Dust Mitigation Program.
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At its greatest extent, the endorheic
Owens Lake was nearly 300' in depth, though climate
changes over millenia already were causing it to become dry and increasingly
alkaline long before white settlers arrived in the region. However, the
process was hastened by agricultural diversion in the late 1800s
and by 1905 it was
approximately 60 percent of what it had been circa 1850.
The killing blow
came with William Mulholland's water expansion project in the early 20th
century. In 1913 the City of Los Angeles purchased most of the water rights
in the Owens Valley and Mulholland's Los Angeles Aqueduct diverted the
remaining water south (see also Mono Lake, which the city also started
diverting from in 1941; see
US Highway 395 Part 8). The L.A.
Aqueduct, to be sure, was a legitimate engineering marvel. Entirely
gravity-driven, the water it carries not only serves the city directly to
this day but is also a hydroelectric
power source, bleeding off to penstocks in the aqueduct to drive
turbines. However, by diverting virtually all available sources, the lake
rapidly shriveled, leaving it dry most times of the year since the 1920s.
The California Water Wars enabled Los Angeles' rocketing growth during the
early and middle 20th century but at the cost of ruination for the economic
and environmental viability of the local communities. In addition to limiting
local agriculture, dust from the derelict
lake subsequently became a major problem and eventually a violation of
federal air quality standards.
In 1998 the City of Los Angeles and the Great Basin Unified Air Pollution
Control District entered into an arrangement committing LADWP to mitigate
the dust from the dry lake. Rather than taking the entire amount,
LADWP is now obliged to apply a portion of the
water to problem areas of the lakebed, wetting the
surface sufficiently to prevent it from emitting additional particulates.
It's a start.
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Entering Keeler.
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Keeler is the only community of note along this routing. It was originally
a small community named Hawley of unknown derivation which became more
prominent after the 1872 Lone Pine earthquake. The magnitude 7.4+ quake,
one of the most severe in the recorded history of the state, was so powerful
that it altered the shoreline and the pier at Swansea to
the north (we'll point it out). As the steamships that then prowled the lake
could no longer dock there, the mining smelters (also wrecked by the quake)
pulled up stumps and moved south. A new mill was in place by 1880 and Hawley
was replatted by Owens Lake Mining and Milling Company agent Julius M. Keeler,
a '49er and a Civil War veteran who had returned west after the South's
surrender. Keeler's name was applied to the new town.
In those days, silver was the ore that mattered. The most significant of the
steamships that serviced the mining operations was the 1872 Bessie Brady
which ran between Keeler and Cartago to the west (along current
US 395). The boat was
the brainchild of entrepreneur Mortimer Belshaw, part-owner of the Union silver
mine who already operated the Yellow Grade toll road controlling shipments
to Los Angeles. The
wagons couldn't carry enough ore fast enough, however, so he hired James Brady
from the Owens Lake company to establish steamboat cargo service as well. It
cut days off the time a freight wagon would have required and carried far more
silver to boot, but the mining operations eventually slowed and the boat itself
exploded and burned to the waterline in 1882. This was just as well because
the railroad arrived in 1883.
Keeler boomed for about a decade more until a silver glut caused prices to
plummet. While zinc mining briefly brought new life to the town around 1910,
eventually most mining ceased by the mid-1950s and the train tracks were torn
out in 1961. Meanwhile, dust from the dying Owens Lake plagued the remaining
residents, causing most to depart. Today its population only numbers 66 [2010].
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Blowing dust remains a problem for Keeler to this day. An old alignment of
CA 190 goes through the town, but was never part of CA 136.
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Cerro Gordo St ("Fat Hill"), named for the Cerro Gordo Mines just east of us.
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Belshaw's Yellow Grade ran near here, run largely by Frenchman Remi Nadeau,
whom he hired in 1869 to do the hauling (which cost him nothing on his own
road, of course). Their relationship was fractious and strained by the
underperformance of both the wagons and the steamboats. It was used again
during the zinc boom, and today the Cerro Gordo Mines are a privately-owned
ghost town that may be toured by arrangement. Belshaw's 1868 residence still
remains, though the 1871 American Hotel burned down in 2020.
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Malone St as we leave Keeler.
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WB CA 136.
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PM 12.50.
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PM 11.50.
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The terrain gets a little more hilly here.
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PM 10.50.
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Turning more due west.
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Roughly at the location of old Swansea we
find another Point of Historical Interest, the Owens Lake
Silver-Lead Furnace.
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The Silver-Lead Furnace and Mill were built in Swansea in
1869 by Colonel Sherman Stevens and operated until 1874 when a severe
thunderstorm inundated what was left of the town. Named for the Welsh town,
James Brady himself
assumed its operation in 1870, building Swansea around it. Between this
smelting furnace and another at Cerro Gordo, 150 bars of silver were produced
every day; each single ingot weighed approximately 83 pounds. By the furnace's
shutdown in 1874 the town was all but abandoned already due to Keeler's
new operations to the south, and today nothing visibly
remains of the furnace except part of the foundation.
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A rocky path against the hills.
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Turn-off for the Dolomite Loop Road, which appears to have been an old CA
190 alignment.
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In 1862 a high quality limestone deposit was discovered in the region but
could not be exploited due to the remote location. Even when the Swansea dock
existed, it was too far away, and no roads nor railroads ran nearby.
Not until 1883
when the Carson and Colorado Railroad was constructed did its development
become viable; the Inyo Marble Company, under Drew Haven Dunn, filed claims
and began mining in earnest in 1885. Unlike most local mining operations,
however, this one still operates. Now operated by F.W. Aggregates,
owners since 1992, it
remains the largest dolomite marble mine in the United States thanks to recent
surveys showing the remaining deposit to still be a gargantuan
seven miles in length and approximately
1,400' deep. The plaque here and
most of the others in the region are mounted on dolomite rocks that came from
this
very mine. The marble is considered high grade and is widely used in flooring,
roofing, landscaping and industrial applications.
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PM 7.50.
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A sort of hal-fassed cattle crossing, since range land is still an important
part of the local economy.
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PM 4.50.
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Descending into the western Owens Valley. The terrain greens up as we near
the remnant Owens River.
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The other end of the Dolomite Loop Rd.
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WB CA 136.
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The Owens River at PM 2.67.
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Approximately 183 miles along, the Owens River is (or at
least was) the major feeder of the Owens Lake, likely formed during the rift
valley process that formed the Owens Valley itself, and like the lake has no
outlet to the sea. In ancient times it may have drained to as far as the old
Lake Manly which today only ephemerally occurs in Death Valley, but shrank
owing to the similar natural and later anthropogenic
pressures put on its outlet. From its headwaters in
southwestern Mono County north of Mammoth Lakes, it flows through Long
Valley and Lake Crowley into Bishop and feeds many of the remaining farm
areas. It then proceeds down past Big Pine and into the Los Angeles
Aqueduct, where most of the water is thus diverted. After a court order
in 2006, LADWP returns about five percent of the pre-aqueduct flow to the
river, which is thus seen here, and is part of what is used to wet the lake
surface under the local agreement. Its discharge in Big Pine measures
roughly 390 cubic feet per second.
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PM 2.50.
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PM 1.50.
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PM 0.50, our last postmile on the westbound direction.
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Approaching the intersection with US 395.
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Looking back, both CA 190 and CA 136 are signed in the eastbound direction,
with distance signage to Furnace Creek in Death Valley.
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Control signs at the junction for Los Angeles (via CA 14) and Bishop.
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END CA 136.
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US 395 as we enter Lone Pine.
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