Floodgap Roadgap's Summer of 6 -- U.S. Highway 6, Part 4: US 6 in Nevada (Ely to Utah State Line; White Pine County)
With last night's storm mostly behind us, we start today where we left off
in Part 3 in Ely. Ely is the county seat for White Pine county and its largest
and only incorporated city at 4,255 [2010].
Originally Ely was Murry Creek Station,
founded as a stagecoach station on its eponymous creek
along the Pony Express and Central Overland
Route lines around 1869 or 1870.
The name Murry, which we saw at the Murry Summit in Part
3, probably comes from Lieutenant Alexander Murry, who was the
commanding officer of the local Army escort in the region.
Interestingly, the name "Ely" was already in use around that time with a
completely different origin. John Ely, a native of Illinois, was one of the
principals of the Raymond
& Ely Mine in Lincoln county, and the Pioche Mining District was renamed
for him in 1870. As a result, the boomtown that subsequently
grew up around their stamp mill was the first "Ely City" and contemporary
accounts of "going to Ely" referred to this area near Pioche.
However, the "Ely" in the modern city of Ely actually comes from another
mining principal, Smith Ely (say EE-lee). Smith Ely operated a copper
mine in Vermont and the town of Vershire in which he operated changed
its name to Ely in 1878 to court his investment. (This didn't last long
because, unbeknownst to the town, Ely's operation had serious financial issues.
After substantial local unrest, the town changed the name back in 1882 and
Ely's mines all but collapsed financially by 1900.) As it happened,
Smith Ely also owned property nearby Murry Creek Station; presumably for
this reason and no other, Frederick F. Thomas, a local miner, ignored the
established Murry Creek Station name when applying for a post office and
used Ely's name instead. No one objected at the time, but the coincidence
with Lincoln's Ely City snarled local historians for years as late as the
1980s. In 1883 and 1885 the once proud
previous county seat of Hamilton burned to the ground in stages
and the few remaining
residents abandoned their holdings; Ely took its place in 1887.
In 1906, Ely took its turn as a boomtown, but for copper instead. Unlike the
gold and silver towns, Ely's copper mines remained in large-scale operations
well into the 1970s until the price of copper collapsed. A brief gold boom
operated during the 1980s to keep the town afloat. By then, however,
technology solved the problem by enabling copper extraction from more plentiful
lower-grade ore and a new set of mining corporations continue to work the
copper mines, strengthening the economy as copper demand has increased.
This caused the rare situation of reactivating former railroads;
for a time the now-defunct
Broken Hill Proprietary Nevada Railroad ("BHP Nevada")
operated regular service from 1996 to 1999 to haul the ore for from BHP's
concentrator to the processors over what used to be a section of the
Nevada Northern Railway. This reactivated line ran from the Union
Pacific station in Shafter, NV through Ely up to Riepetown. However, the
volumes proved more economical to transport by truck and the railroad folded,
and most of its rolling stock went to the Nevada Northern Railway Museum.
Much of the rest of the Nevada Northern trackage is also part of the museum,
formed after the NNR shut down in 1983, with a section owned by the City
since 2006; the old railroad to Ely is now the Ghost Train of Old Ely
tourist attraction. Copper mining operations continue to this day.
In this section we meet the mighty (lonely) US 50 coming east from Carson
City (see US 395 in Carson City for this
segment) and US 93 coming north from Las Vegas
(see US 95 in Las Vegas for this segment).
US 50 in this section is of course the famous Lincoln Highway and is
well marked as such into the present day; see
US 395 Part 11 for a voluminous discussion of
this transcontinental highway's history.
US 50 will travel with us for a long run well into Utah.
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Back at the municipal limits.
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Distance signage looking westbound, with Bishop listed correctly as terminus,
283 miles distant (Part 1).
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At this point (PM 36) old US 6 and old NV 4 branch off along a business route.
The modern truck bypass exists to keep the mining trucks out of the downtown
and was built in the 1990s.
We will do each of these routes in turn.
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Fork 1: Business US 6 and Old US 6 in Ely
The old routing of NV 4 and subsequently BR US 6 proceeds down Murry Street
to US 50 and the former routing of NV 2 on Aultman Street.
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The downtown is well signed as the historical district from modern US 6
proper.
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Old slotted STOP sign at one of the local side streets.
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This section of old US 6 is now a residential block and would be totally
unsuitable for commercial traffic.
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The stately brick city hall, built in 1928. Next door is the fire department.
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Junction BR US 50.
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It is unclear, but unlikely, that US 50 proper was
ever routed on
Clark mostly because of several old and well-known landmarks on modern
US 50 on Aultman (a block north). Neither business route is not very well
signed in general, though US 6 is clearly signed worse, at least at the time.
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Junction US 50 at Aultman St (and old NV 2). This is the end of old NV 4 and
BR US 6.
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The historical junction is clearly acknowledged by NDOT, who placed this
control city sign here (notice DELTA on greenout covering probably ELY
based on the size), not something they typically do for ordinary city streets
intersecting the highway.
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Looking west at US 50 snaking back into the mountains.
We turn right into downtown Ely to continue US 50/old US 6.
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Entering downtown Ely.
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The historic six-story Hotel Nevada. Opened in 1929, it took the crown from
the Mizpah Hotel in Tonopah (Part 2) as the tallest
building in Nevada and remained so for nearly two decades. The state's first
fire-proof building, it continues to offer lodging, dining and (of course)
gambling to the modern traveler.
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Courthouse Park, though the building behind it is the library.
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The old White Pine High School, built in 1913. It is the middle school now;
the modern high school moved to the US 6 bypass in 1996.
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US 50 shield, obviously with something missing to the left where the US 6
shield used to be.
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Approaching the US 93 junction.
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Just next to us is a Lincoln Highway post, which appears to be an
original installation dating to 1928. Weighing approximately 220 pounds,
the posts are built to last with solid concrete
and central steel-rebar reinforcement.
President Lincoln is stamped on a bronze medallion embedded in the head, and
the L badge and colour strips are typically cast concrete with colour added
for superior durability, though this one seems to have been painted,
possibly secondarily.
Unfortunately many of these stately artifacts of
highway history have become targets of theft and vandalism.
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Notice that the arrow faces east along US 93, and not along US 50/93 south.
That's because the Lincoln Highway actually leaves north of town with US 93
(and old NV 2), a holdover of a fight between Utah and Nevada where Utah
refused to pave the original course of
the Lincoln Highway west of Salt Lake City concluding it
was expensive and of no benefit to Utah. Nevada and the Lincoln Highway
Association desperately lobbied for Utah to change their position to no avail;
Utah instead paved the Wendover Cutoff, part of the competing Victory Highway
and becoming part of the original US 40. The Lincoln Highway Association
conceded and adopted the new routing, and it also became US 50 in 1939 (and
subsequently US 50 ALT in 1957, read on). When Interstate 80 was built in
parallel, the old routing became part of BR 80 in Wendover, UT and
West Wendover, NV, a rare instance of a cross-border business route. (Another
example is BR 8 between Yuma, AZ and Winterhaven,
CA.)
As signed in 1939, US 50 left town to the north with US 93, as the post
indicates. It then diverted along modern
US 93 ALT to US 40 and the Wendover Cutoff. Meanwhile, US 6 existed on the
then-unpaved road between Delta and Ely (which we'll travel in this part and
the next). This was planned as a major future corridor, the so-called
Grand Central Highway between Ely and the Arrowhead Trail (later US 91 and
now I-15) in Santaquin, UT, because it avoided the Great Salt Lake Desert
and was allegedly a superior route to Los Angeles than the Arrowhead.
Utah and Nevada eventually completed paving on this stretch and
US 50 was moved to it with US 6, leaving the old alignment as US 50 ALT
circa 1954 to continue through Salt Lake to US 50 in Provo (we'll see this
too). Utah discontinued certain overlapping portions of US 50A in 1972 and
Nevada left its piece as US 93A.
US 50 had one more major realignment in Utah, but we'll get to that when
we get to Delta.
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US 93 is also signed TO US 6 (the truck bypass). We leave our brief
sojourn on the Lincoln Highway and turn right.
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This modern sign obviously omits the US 6 shield.
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Distance signage leaving downtown Ely, with a single mile to go to US 6.
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Looking back at the junction as we leave town.
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US 93 is a scenic route, but apparently only US 93, I guess.
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Junction modern US 6.
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All roads in Nevada apparently lead to Vegas. If you take US 93 south, you
can go that way (284 miles) more or less directly, or you can take US 6 back
to Lund Jct, take NV 318 down to US 93, and then to Vegas from there (240
miles). Your choice, of course.
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Fork 2: Modern US 6
And now, modern US 6.
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Prepared for your business!
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EB US 6.
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PM 37.
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The modern White Pine High School. Visit the Bobcat Store!
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Approaching the end of our previous fork. We turn right.
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US 6/US 50/US 93
Now merging all our forks and routes together.
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Leaving town.
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Looking back at the US 6 junction.
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Distance signage leaving Ely. Pioche is included for US 93 drivers.
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Grand Army of the Republic signage.
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Briefly we pass through the Ely Shoshone Indian Reservation.
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PM 40.
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The scrub valley terrain shines in the bright morning sun.
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Comins Lake, one of the little small lakes outside of town. The construction
of US 93 dammed up several of the local creeks and formed the lake in 1953,
which acts as a reservoir. Local fishing had been seriously impacted by
pike predation on the trout, which were illegally introduced, and pike
cannibalism have even taken a toll on the invaders themselves.
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PM 52.
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Passing by Ely State Prison. Opened in July 1989, Ely SP is Nevada's highest
level maximum security prison. It houses Nevada's death row and has a
capacity of 1,150.
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Curving around to our next series of summits. These crossings are
higher altitude than our last set in Part 3.
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Entering Humboldt NF as we cross the treeline (and that Scenic Route
sign).
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Probably some white pines in there.
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Connors Pass, US 6's highest point in Nevada, at 7,722'.
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Possibly named for
a Col. P. E. Connor, who established Fort Ruby in White Pine county in 1862.
Also known as Camp Ruby, it protected the various overland coaches and Pony
Express routes, and operated from 1862 to 1869. Located near Hobson, NV, it
is now a National Historic Landmark.
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Descending sharply from the Pass.
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What looks like an old alignment of highway sits in the gorge floor as we
pass PM 63.
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Looking back up the mountain terrain.
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Leaving Humboldt NF.
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Down off the mountain.
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The old alignment snakes in to join us as we level off.
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Advance signage for Majors Junction, where US 93 splits off.
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Majors Junction and the nearby Majors Place are named for Major Wood, who
was the owner and operator of the local cafe. It's the only gas station
for miles, so if you were short leaving Ely, it's time. Like Warm Springs,
that's about all there is here.
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Control cities, with US 6/50 signed for Delta and Great Basin National Park,
and US 93 signed for Pioche and Las Vegas.
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Separation.
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Looking back at the distance signage, with Majors Place in the background.
McGill is signed for US 93.
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US 6/US 50
This pair will persist for a long way to come.
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EB US 6/EB US 50.
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Nothing like handwritten sign inventories!
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Distance signage leaving Majors Jct. Baker would ordinarily be an odd choice
to sign, since it's not really all that near the highway, but there are few
towns of any kind out this way between here and Delta.
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Apparently this is
Spring Valley, in one of the more amusing euphemisms the BLM has come up with.
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PM 66 (or possibly 00.99).
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Turnoff for NV 893, which serves the local ranches up to Muncy Creek where
it dribbles off into dirt road and follows several county roads back to
US 93 north of Ely. Look at that road in the background!
Does US 6/50 go straight up the hill? Let's see!
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That's about all there is to NV 893, by the way.
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And the answer is ... no. The road over the mountain is a county road.
Would have been cool though!
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Snow in July, because we really are at that kind of altitude.
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More basalt formations.
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Curving back around and up to our final summit in Nevada.
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Sacramento Pass, 7,154', crossing the Snake Range.
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Leaving the summit.
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PM 88.
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Down into the central Great Basin.
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Signage for the Great Basin National Park.
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Wheeler Peak, the second highest point in Nevada after Boundary Peak
(Part 2) at 13,065' and the highest point in the
Snake Range and
Great Basin National Park. It is named for George Wheeler, leader of the
Wheeler Survey, which ran from 1872 to 1879 to map the portions of the
United States west of the 100th meridian. It, along with the King and
Powell Surveys, were consolidated into what is now the modern US Geological
Survey. Besides their detailed topographic maps, many of the photographs their
surveyors took survive in the Library of Congress.
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The Great Basin National Park takes its name from the Great Basin itself.
Virtually all of US 6 that we have travelled
so far (and will travel up to Provo, UT) is part of the Great Basin, the
largest region of contiguous endorheic watersheds in the North American
continent. Its arid 184,427 square miles extend from the Californian
Sierra Nevada in the west to the Wasatch Range in Utah to the east; the
Columbia and Colorado Plateaus hem it on the north and south. Other than
the major cities of Reno and Salt Lake City, its sparse population of
just over three million is scattered throughout in the small settlements
and towns just like the ones we've seen.
The Nat'l Park features the Lehman
Caves, at the base of Wheeler Peak, which was the original Lehman Caves
National Monument as established in 1922. Discovered by Absalom Lehman in
1885, the 550 million year old
Caves teem with life, some of which never see the surface in their
entire life cycle, and are best known for their Sunken Gardens. The monument
was reorganized into the larger National Park in 1986. It covers 77,180
acres.
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Selfie stop!
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BLM signage for Snake Valley, somehow more appropriate than Spring Valley.
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Approaching the junction for NV 487.
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NV 487 is the route to Baker, the only town of note in this region, and
the Great Basin Nat'l Park visitor center.
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Ew! What was NDOT thinking?!
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Distance signage leaving the NV 487 junction.
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Curving around into the plain.
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PM 100.
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Utah state line.
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Looking back at the Nevada state line and our final postmile for White Pine
county (PM 101.88).
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